Blog – Japan art tours

My latest discoveries and adventures in Japan

Japan tours, artists, spaces

5 December 2025

Whenever I return from a walk-to-art Japan tour, I am always reflecting on the time that I shared with the group but also the time I spent discovering other parts of Japan. This time, I was fortunate to visit Pola Museum of Art and House of Light by James Turrell.

Last year, when I was in Hakone, I noticed a white bus with the branding – Pola Museum of Art. I did not have time to visit, so I put it on my list to visit this year. The Pola Museum of Art, situated in Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, is in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park.

The museum blends art, architecture and nature seamlessly in-situ of a national forest. The museum is mostly underground, and works from the collection are carefully curated in the light-filled architectural space. The indoor area is just as spectacular as the outdoor, with the two spaces coexisting together.

After the tour, I met my partner in Tokyo and we drove to the Nikko Forest, to hike and bathe in a beautiful onsen called Hatcho no Yu. We then drove 3 hours north to Tokamachi, in Nagata, to stay at the House of Light by James Turrell.

We were conscious of arriving on time as the house has two light programs, one at sunset and one at sunrise, not to be missed!

There was one other lovely guest from Singapore staying, so together we shared a magical experience of light and energy. If it is not raining, the roof retracts to bring the outside in and vice versa.

The sento was also a room of light and contemplation, and the luxury of staying the night, you can soak in the atmosphere at night and in the morning.

As quoted by James Turrell: "When I first met Fram Kitagawa, he asked me to make a 'meditation house' for the Echigo-Tsumari region. He gave me a book written by Junichiro Tanizaki 'In Praise of Shadows'. After reading 'In Praise of Shadows', I decided to create a house in the traditional architectural manner of this region. I wished to realize the 'world of shadows we are losing,' as Tanizaki wrote, as a space where one can experience living in light, by relating light inside to light outside."

You can visit the house during the day, but the real magic happens at sunset and sunrise and worth the drive to stay the night.

Again, I finished my Japan trip staying at Hanare in the town of Yanaka, Tokyo. A wonderful creative area, with excellent eateries, coffee and places to explore. This time round, I finally made it to Scai The Bath House, a contemporary art space supporting the journey of established and emerging talent – a space worth visiting if you are in the area.

And, of course, the food – Tayori is my latest find with a 'farm to table' set menu for lunch, another must visit. Booking is a good idea.

In 2026 walk-to-art will be delivering two international tours, both in October. Venice for the 61st International Art Exhibition of La Biennale di Venezia and walk-to-art Japan, Setouchi Islands!

Hope to see you on tour!

 

 

 

 

First walk-to-art Japan: the country's beauty is magical

artists, spaces

1 December 2024

I have recently returned from a wonderful trip to Japan, delivering the first public walk-to-art Japan. It was a long time in the making, and I'm thrilled to say it was a great tour and such a special addition to the international tours.

Before arriving to the islands, I stayed in Kowakudani, Hakone, and visited the Hakone Open Air Museum. The Open Air Museum is stunning sculpture park that is beautifully manicured. It holds a vast collection of sculptures and a dedicated space to the ceramic works of Picasso. The artworks coexist with the landscape, and as you navigate through the grounds, you do not only enjoy the sculptures but also the gardens. Such a lovely experience. I would highly recommend visiting and staying in this quaint town, away from the main town of Hakone, which lends itself to many travellers.

After a week researching and reconnecting, I met my participants at Uno Hotel in Tamano. Uno Hotel is new and perfectly located near the ferries and train station. I'm still a little unsure about the multiple use of textures in the rooms, but the breakfast is excellent and the service is warm, friendly and kind. It is also next door to the Setouchi Onsen Tamanoyu, a favourite destination after a day of visuals.

The next four days were spent island hoping and taking in the many great buildings, art projects and art spaces. As the tour lasts for only four days, it is tightly curated. We do not take the town bus or ride the electric bikes to our destinations, we walk. As many who have been on my tours over the years will know, we do walk at a pace. The Seto Inland Sea islands are not for the faint hearted; you need to be able to walk comfortably from one art space to the next, gently uphill, for 30 minutes. The walking is part of the journey: it allows you to clear your mind, connect to the land and sea. You view the autumn leaves on the trees, and the subtle signs to your destinations. I will not share where we went and what we did as, as always, I like to keep the destinations and itinerary unrevealed. I enjoy my participants not being influenced or too informed, it's nice to look and feel with fresh eyes.

After the tour, I spent time bathing in Yufuin, a hot spring town, five hours down from Uno Station. I then travelled to Nagoya, enjoying quaint old school coffee houses with set menus and specialised shops. Before heading back to Tokyo, I popped into Gifu to the Site of Reversible Destiny – Yoro Park. Fun!

I often finish my Japan trips with a stay at Hanare in the town of Yanaka, Tokyo. I love the area, the creative shops, the excellent eateries and the cemetery. Of course, always heading to CIBI, for coffee and pound cake.

All the international tours are memorable for me and they carry their own joy. Venice is opulent in food, wine and art, New York's energy is infectious and Japan's beauty is magical.

The next walk-to-art Japan will be in October 2025.

 

 

 

Final tweaks to walk-to-art Japan, plus Tokyo and Kyoto discoveries

artists, spaces

17 January 2024

Hello, it's been a while! Happy 2024.

In November 2023, a trip to Japan that had been scheduled for 2020 resumed, and I was able to complete the final tweaks to walk-to-art's Seto Inland Sea islands tour.

This trip was just as wonderful as the last. I spent more time in Tokyo and Kyoto discovering great eateries, specialised bakeries and coffee shops. One memorable place was Hitsuji, a small bakery dedicated to natural yeast doughnuts. I'm not a big fan of doughnuts, however, these were incredible, so light and delicate. I was in the line for close to 1.5 hours, but in heaven as soon as I took a bite!

Whilst in Tokyo, I stayed at Hanare a small boutique hotel (guesthouse) in the area of Yanaka – such a special experience. The attention to detail, personalised tour, notes left at breakfast, all contributed to a lovely stay. The area was fabulous and creative.

If you are familiar with the great café CIBI in Collingwood, Melbourne, you will love the fact that their sister café is located in Yanaka. A creative village with no high-rise buildings, small bars and eateries, it is worth a look in next time you are in town.

Travelling in early November the temperature was perfect walking weather. It wasn't until I ventured up north to a group of hot springs located in Towada-Hachimantai National Park that I needed the padded jacket as the snow started to fall. I visited Nyuto Onsen Village and stayed at Ganiba Onsen in the middle of a primeval beech forest. Bathing at night in the forest whist the snow fell was surreal and beautiful, an experience that I always remember!

After many years in the making, I am thrilled to announce that walk-to-art Japan is now curated and scheduled for October 2024. The tour will focus on the art islands of Naoshima, Teshima and Inujima. and the group will reside at Uno Hotel, Tamano-shi, for 4 nights.

Next to the hotel is the open air onsen, Setouchi Onsen Tamanoyu. A favourite place of mine, and a chance to bathe under the stars. I will only be taking 8 adults and bookings are now open!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Art in Japan's Teshima and Naoshima: a wonderful cultural experience

artists, spaces

25 June 2018

I have just spent the last few weeks in Japan discovering the islands of Teshima and Naoshima.

It was a wonderful cultural experience, with incredible installations by well-known, established artists – Christian Boltanski, Pipilotti Rist, Yayoi Kusama and Tobias Rehberger to name a few.

I was fortunate to have no time restriction, as each island requires at least one day to explore and move from one art space or installation to the other.

Naoshima is the most frequented by travellers and is slightly easier to navigate. Teshima was my personal favourite, but a good level of fitness and navigational skills are required as there is a lack of signage.

 

Transport is by foot or bicycle up the mountain or a very slow bus in which you need to wait a while.

Accommodation is available on the islands and, if staying in Naoshima, Benesse House would have to be the pick.

No photography is permitted in any of the museums or art spaces. It was so refreshing to have people connect to the work rather than their electronic devices connect to it.

On Teshima, the Art Museum was a sublime spiritual immersion into a white cave. The curved walls and opened ceiling created an experience like no other. It has to be experienced to be fully realised. Even if one could take interior photographs the images would not do the building justice.

 

Naoshima was home to several large "pumpkin" installations by Yayoi Kusama and to the Benesse House Museum. An architectural highlight was the Lee Ufan Museum, a collaboration between internationally acclaimed artist Lee Ufan and architect Tadao Ando.

Surrounded by hills, the museum delivered a space for stillness, contemplation and meditation whilst surrounded by the beauty of the natural environment.

If you are looking for an art destination, the Setouchi Triennale will take place on the islands in 2019 and is worth attending!