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My latest discoveries and adventures in Japan

Pola Museum of Art (entrance), in Hakone, Kanagawa, Japan

Pola Museum of Art entrance

Japan tours, artists, spaces

5 December 2025

Whenever I return from a walk-to-art Japan tour, I am always reflecting on the time that I shared with the group but also the time I spent discovering other parts of Japan. This time, I was fortunate to visit Pola Museum of Art and House of Light by James Turrell.

Last year, when I was in Hakone, I noticed a white bus with the branding – Pola Museum of Art. I did not have time to visit, so I put it on my list to visit this year. The Pola Museum of Art, situated in Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, is in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park.

The museum blends art, architecture and nature seamlessly in-situ of a national forest. The museum is mostly underground, and works from the collection are carefully curated in the light-filled architectural space. The indoor area is just as spectacular as the outdoor, with the two spaces coexisting together.

Can you be lonely and happy? (2025), Ryan Gander, Pola Museum of Art

Can you be lonely and happy? (2025), Ryan Gander
Pola Museum of Art

After the tour, I met my partner in Tokyo and we drove to the Nikko Forest, to hike and bathe in a beautiful onsen called Hatcho no Yu. We then drove 3 hours north to Tokamachi, in Nagata, to stay at the House of Light by James Turrell.

We were conscious of arriving on time as the house has two light programs, one at sunset and one at sunrise, not to be missed!

There was one other lovely guest from Singapore staying, so together we shared a magical experience of light and energy. If it is not raining, the roof retracts to bring the outside in and vice versa.

The sento was also a room of light and contemplation, and the luxury of staying the night, you can soak in the atmosphere at night and in the morning.

House of Light by James Turrell, in Tokamachi, Nagata, Japan

House of Light by James Turrell

As quoted by James Turrell: "When I first met Fram Kitagawa, he asked me to make a 'meditation house' for the Echigo-Tsumari region. He gave me a book written by Junichiro Tanizaki 'In Praise of Shadows'. After reading 'In Praise of Shadows', I decided to create a house in the traditional architectural manner of this region. I wished to realize the 'world of shadows we are losing,' as Tanizaki wrote, as a space where one can experience living in light, by relating light inside to light outside."

You can visit the house during the day, but the real magic happens at sunset and sunrise and worth the drive to stay the night.

Again, I finished my Japan trip staying at Hanare in the town of Yanaka, Tokyo. A wonderful creative area, with excellent eateries, coffee and places to explore. This time round, I finally made it to Scai The Bath House, a contemporary art space supporting the journey of established and emerging talent – a space worth visiting if you are in the area.

Nikko Forest, Japan

Nikko Forest

And, of course, the food – Tayori is my latest find with a 'farm to table' set menu for lunch, another must visit. Booking is a good idea.

In 2026 walk-to-art will be delivering two international tours, both in October. Venice for the 61st International Art Exhibition of La Biennale di Venezia and walk-to-art Japan, Setouchi Islands!

Hope to see you on tour!